Long Live the King's Head!

 A neighbour of the King’s Head has been complaining about the noise. Perhaps when they moved to the area they didn’t realise that there was a pub nearby – after all it has only been there since 1495. Anyway, for anyone who is interested in one of Lichfield’s oldest and most historic inns, here is a bit of history and legend.
According to the County History, The King’s Head in Bird Street was known as such by 1694 but in existence as the Antelope by 1495 and later called the Bush.


 On 25th March 1705 Colonel Luke Lillingston raised a regiment initially named ‘Lillingston’s Regiment’, then the ’38th of Foot’, and finally ‘The South Staffordshire Regiment’.  The 80th Regiment of Foot was raised in 1793 by Henry William Paget for the Revolutionary War with France and the original headquarters and place for enlistment was The King’s Head.

It is of course listed and the description given is ‘A coaching inn, now public house. Mid to late C18 with early C19 alterations. A good example of one of the coaching inns which served the London to Holyhead and Carlisle road’.

From the 1828-29 Pigotts Directory (as seen on the Burntwood Family History Group Website).

Coaches
TO LONDON the Herald (from Manchester) calls at the King’s Head every morning (Mondays excepted) at half past-two; goes thro’ Tamworth, Atherstone, Coventry, Daventry, Towcester, Stoney Stratford, Dunstable, St Albans Ec
TO MANCHESTER the Herald, (from London) calls at the King’s Head, every morning (Mondays excepted) at nine; goes thro’ Stone, Newcastle, Congleton Ec.
CARRIERS (i.e. freight)
TO BIRMINGHAM, Mrs. Bates, from the King’s Head,
TO BIRMINGHAM, UTTOXETER Ec.. Thomas Butler, from the King’s Head
The pub features on the Lichfield Ghost Walk. A maid is supposed to have died in a fire and a ghostly light is seen flickering in the upstairs windows. A mortally wounded laughing (!) cavalier wanders the pavement outside. According to the Staffordshire Encyclopedia there is also a ghost called George. On a personal note, I was sitting at a table with my family near the bar several years ago and I felt a sharp pain in my neck, as if someone had flicked it really hard and my necklace fell off. My neck had a big red mark on it and I’m still not quite sure what caused it!

Well, well, well! Merlich, Jacob & Mary



Most of us Lichfeldians know about St Chad’s well. However, I have come across a few other wells in Lichfield which seem to have disappeared.

Merliches Well – According to the William Salt Archaeological Society’s ‘Collection for a History of Staffordshire’, Merliches Well was on Merliches Lane, a short lane at right angles to Pipe Lane. Pipe Lane was the old name for Abnalls Lane and was on the east side of Beacon Street, or Bacone Street as it was known then.

From A Short Account of the Ancient and Modern State of the City and Close of Lichfield, ‘on the North Side of Shaw Lane leading to Merliche’s or Maudlin’s Well was a large house called Whitehall, and on the south side the Archdeacon of Chester had a house’. ( I think the Archdeacons house was on the corner of Beacon St and Shaw Lane).

John Jackson’s History of the City and Cathedral of Lichfield says that tradition suggests that Maudlins Well was so called due to a drunkard tumbling in one evening after one too many. However Jackson believes that the name instead referes to Magdalen.

Jacob’s Well – near Friar’s Alley, a few yards from the brook near this place was a spring formerly in repute for curing weak eyes and sores.

Marywell – In Breadmarket St, was a house called Priest’s Hall (now St Mary’s Chambers) and near here was a well called Marywell. According to the County History, St. Mary’s Well, in Breadmarket Street opposite the west end of St. Mary’s church, existed in the late Middle Ages

The Lichfield Gallows

A while ago someone told me that the Lichfield Gallows were situated near the Shell Garage on the London Road/Tamworth Road junction. A woman had told him she was walking past one evening and was pushed by unseen hands. Spooky!

I’ve always meant to check if this was correct and it appears that it is (the location that is, not the spooky story)!

Here’s a link to one of the oldest maps I know of – John Ogilby 1675 Lichfield to Chester  It’s fascinating in its own right, but for today’s purposes look at the bottom left corner and you’ll see Gallows marked, just outside of Lichfield.

‘The History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14’ tells us that ‘A gallows was built, or possibly repaired, at the bishop’s expense in 1532–3. In 1650 there was a gallows on the west side of the London road near its junction with Shortbutts Lane. The gallows there fell down c. 1700, its foundations undermined by people digging for sand, but it was re-erected’

In ‘Staffordshire Customs, Supersitions and Folklore (1924)’, Frederick Hackwood writes that at Gallows Wharf ‘half a centry ago a decayed oak stump stood two feet out of the ground….and was said to be the remains of the ancient gallows-tree’.

Given the description from the County History above, it seems unlikely that this is correct. However, it wouldn’t be the only one in the area – in Brereton (Brewerton?), near Rugeley, Mr Ogilby has marked ‘a hangmans oake on ye road’. A quick look at the archives does show a Hangman’s Croft in Brereton in the 1800s but at the moment I can’t find any other references.

JW Jackson, a City Librarian of Lichfield, contributed a local history column to the Lichfield Mercury in the 1930s. He carried out some research into crime and punishment in Lichfield and found that in 1711 the Sheriff of Lichfield was instructed to carry out two executions. One of these was a man condemned for murder. The other a woman who was sentenced to death for stealing a pair of shoes, a straw hat with brimming, a sixpenny loafe and a cheese. Presumably this poor woman fell foul of the 1699 Shoplifting Act which made it a capital offence to steal goods worth more than 5 shillings!

It seems public executions in Lichfield weren’t a common occurence. According to the website Capitalpunishmentuk, six executions were carried out in the City between 1735 and 1782.  Three men were hanged for uttering (which I understand is the crime of putting something forged into circulation) in April 1801 and the gallows was used for the last time on 1 June 1810 when three forgers were hanged. On the 1884 Ordnance Survey Map, the area is called Gallow’s Wharf, but by the 1920s it was known as St John’s Wharf.

Knaves Castle

One of the great thing about doing this blog is that whilst looking for one thing, you find ten other things! It’s amazing how many fascinating things are on your doorstep, or just down the A5 in this case. Until recently, I had never heard of Knaves Castle, but now that I have, I’m intrigued as to what this was. It seems that this question has puzzled people over the centuries.

Back in 1794, in ‘The History and Antiquities of Shenstone’, Rev Henry Sanders wrote that Dr Plot believed that Knaves Castle was a place to watch travellers safely cross ‘this heath, formerly all wood and much infested with robberies’…'(for) which the passengers allowed some small gratuity’.  In complete contrast, he reported that another of Dr Plot’s theories was that ‘the robbers themselves harboured in this place’ and hence the name Knaves Castle.  Rev Sanders’ own opinion is that ‘though there remain no signs of a fort, it seems very likely to have been one to guard strangers passing over so wild and dreary a country as Cannoc Wood is at present; much more was it such formerly, when full of woods and thickets’. I’m assuming that he is referring to Dr Robert Plot who wrote a ‘Natural History of Staffordshire’ in 1686 which included a map showing Knaves Castle (this can be seen on the Staffordshire Past Track website.

In 1870-72, John Marius Wilson’s Imperial Gazetteer of England and Wales, saysTraces of a Roman camp, called Knave’s Castle, are to the N of the village’ (the village referred to is Ogley Hay).

According to ‘Notes on Staffordshire Place Names’ by WH Duignan of Walsall, earthworks and tumuli are often called castles.  The book states that the tumulus is now almost obliterated and enclosed in a garden, but that sixty years ago was very plain (the book was written in 1902, so ’60 years ago’ would have been the 1840s).

Knave’s Castle is a kilometre west of the Staffordshire Hoard findsite, but Della Hooke from the University of Birmingham, in her paper ‘The Landscape of the Staffordshire Hoard’, casts doubt on the description of Knave’s Castle as a tumulus and believes that it is no more than a raised natural hillock.

The English Heritage description of the site can be at found at the Pastscape website.

Unfortunately, no there are no physical remains of  Knaves Castle.  Was it really a Roman earthwork, a hideout for robbers or just a hill?

Update: Since originally doing this post earlier this year, I have since come across an excellent and much more in depth post on Knaves Castle on The Gatehouse website.  The post concludes that Knaves Castle was an artificial earthwork, albeit one that may have developed from a natural feature.

The Carpenters Arms – a Lichfield Beer House

The Carpenters Arms was a pub on Christ Church Lane, sadly demolished before I moved to Lichfield.

1841 Census

Back in 1841, the premises wasn’t listed as a pub. The census entry just names James Page, Carpenter, his wife Maria and their family. Twenty years later, in 1861, Maria is the head of the household and a beerhouse keeper. The premises is known as the Carpenters Arms, Leomansley.

1861 census

I understand that premises like the Carpenters Arms existed all over Britain, thanks to the Beer House Act in 1830. In order to promote beer drinking, seen as a healthy alternative to gin and of course untreated water, the duty on beer was removed. In addition, for a small fee of two guineas, anyone could brew and sell beer. According to John Shaw, this is where we get the term ‘Public House’ from, along with terminology such as lounge (for upmarket customers) and bar (which stopped customers going into the private part of the house).1 The law did tighten up again in 1869, with the introduction of the Wine and Beer House Act, which meant a license for the premises had to be acquired from the local magistrate, who would of course refuse to renew a license for a beer house that was disorderly or unsuitable.

It seems the Carpenters Arms remained a beer house until February 1949, when a full license was applied for. Supporting the application, one customer said there were a lot of elderly people in the district who liked a short drink for medicinal purposes. Also, he explained that when a person took his wife, they liked a short drink, and you could not offer ladies a glass of beer!

Another customer reported how for whisky or other shorts, you had to go into Lichfield and if you weren’t a regular, it wasn’t often you got one.2

The application for the Carpenters Arms was granted and so, the Leomansley old folk didn’t have to go without their medicinal whisky and the ladies of Leomansley were able to drink in a ladylike fashion.

However, as previously mentioned, the pub closed in around 2002. The Rise apartments now occupy the site and unless I’m mistaken, I don’t think that there is an acknowledgment of the site’s history, which is a shame. It also seems a shame that, given the huge increase in population in Leomansley in recent years, the Carpenter’s Arms may have had a new lease of life had it managed to survive another few years. We’ll never know.

I’d be interested to know if any other Lichfield pubs started off as beerhouses….

Edit: This morning I remembered that there was some information about another Lichfield Beer House on the excellent BrownhillsBob’s Brownhills Blog. Sadly now also demolished, the Royal Oak started life at Sandyway Farm, Walsall Rd, now in the process of being redeveloped into residential properties. There had been an application to turn it back into a pub a couple of years ago, but I think it was rejected.

The pub moved up the road to the top of Pipehill in around 1868, but closed in the 1960s. Have a look at Bob’s post The Lost Pub of Pipehill for more information, plus photos and a really interesting discussion.

Sources:
1. The Old Pubs of Lichfield – John Shaw
2.The Lichfield Mercury archives accessed at Lichfield Records Office

Lichfield Brewery & The Bridge Tavern

The Lichfield Brewery Co was formed in 1869, a merger of two local breweries, owned by the Griffith Brothers Co and The Lichfield Malting Co.1 The name is fading, but just about legible on this building behind Lichfield City railway station. Observant readers will notice that the date on the building of 1858 predates the company by 11 years  – it’s thought the building originally belonged to the Griffith Brothers. Perhaps Lichfield Brewery Co was added at the time of the merger.

In Howard Clayton’s Victorian Lichfield, there is reproduction of a Lichfield Brewery Co advert. On offer are Pale Ales, Light Pale Ale ‘AK’ (intriguingly recommended for family use!), Strong Ale, Mild Ales, Stout and Porter along with Harvest Burgundy (Red or White) and Tintara wines.

The company was taken over by Samuel Allsopp and Co in 1930 and production at the Lichfield Brewery ceased soon afterwards. In 1931, The Lichfield Aerated Water Co set up at the site, but were taken over by a Derby company, Burrows & Sturgess (who produced soft drinks and who claimed to have produced the first Iron Bru.2 I always thought it was made in Scotland, from girders!). A new company called the Birmingham Chemical Co was established from this takeover. Apparently, the site became known as the ‘Wiltell Works’, after this company’s slogan ‘Quality Will Tell’, and there’s a Wiltell Rd nearby too!3

The majority of the buildings were demolished in 1969.  However, still standing are the Brewery Offices with their roll of honour, still actively used to pay tribute to the 13 employees killed in the First World War.  Their names are also included on the memorial in the Remembrance Garden.

On the opposite side of Upper St John St is a building that was once the Bridge Tavern4. Staffordshire Pasttrack has two photographs taken outside the pub around 1910. The first depicts the publican, stood outside by a horse & cart. The second, shows the pub decorated with greenery, and a huge crowd of people gathered for a celebration, possibly the Bower.

You can still see where the pub sign used to be, and a little further down, the place where a board proudly announced:

‘William Whatkiss Licensed Retailer Ale, Beer, & Foreign and British Wines and Spirits. Dealer in Tobacco’

In my previous post, I said I’d like to find out about current local breweries. It’s been a lot easier to find out about the old Lichfield Brewery than it has about the new Lichfield Brewery!  I’m sure I had one of their beers at the Lichfield Medieval Market a couple of years back, called Festival Ale.  I’ve been trying to find out if the brewery is still going.  You can buy pump clips on ebay for their beers such as Steeple Jack and MT Pocket, but I can’t find much more at the moment.

Sources:
1. ‘Lichfield: Public services’, A History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14: Lichfield (1990)
2. http://www.bygonederbyshire.co.uk/
3 & 4 The Old Pubs of Lichfield – John Shaw*

*I had a copy of this ages ago and lent it out.  Chatting on Twitter with @brownhillsbob a while ago he reminded me about what a great book it is and I treated myself to another copy.   Loads of info & some great photos too. If you’re interested in Lichfield History (and if you’re here, I’m assuming you are ;0), you should invest in a copy. Go on, go on, go on….

City Brewery Co (Lichfield) Fire 1916

Lichfield Maltings taken from Magnet car park
moments before my camera broke!



During the 19th century beer boom, brewing was the most important industry in Lichfield(1), which was home to five breweries during the period(2). Eventually, most of these merged and were taken over by some of the big companies but we do still have some interesting buildings around the City to remind us of the industry.

One of these is the former Lichfield Maltings (a grade II listed building), on the Birmingham Rd, once the malthouse for The City Brewery Co, formed in 1874. Along with the manager’s house/offices, it survived the huge fire that destroyed the rest of the brewery.

The fire started a few hours before dawn, on an October morning in 1916. The Lichfield Mercury reported that ‘Never has a conflagration of such magnitude ever been witnessed in the City’. The fire burned for around 10 hours, and it took five local Fire Brigades and 750,000 gallons of water to extinguish it.

The Mercury suggested that the people of Lichfield would ‘extend their sincerest sympathies to the directors and shareholders for the severe loss’, with estimates for the damage running to ‘not less than £30,000’, although this was covered by insurance. I’m sure the people of Lichfield’s sincerest sympathies would be also have been extended to the 70 workmen, left without a job following the blaze.(3)

In the days that followed, the City’s provision for dealing with fires was criticised. People wanted to know why it had taken thirty minutes for the Lichfield brigade to arrive at the scene of the fire, when other brigades in surrounding areas were said to turn out in less than ten. It added fuel to the ongoing campaign for a motor fire engine in Lichfield. Presumably, the brigade was still using the steam engine presented to Lichfield by Albert Worthington (the brewer!) in 1898, which was housed in the former police station at the Guildhall5. Opponents of a motor engine had argued that when attending rural fires (which most fires at the time were), the wheels wouldn’t be able to grip ploughed land and fields. It took another six years, but in 1922 the city got its first motor engine, with half the cost being met by the City’s rural district.(4)

Another view of the Maltings, taken at dusk, hence the gloom

Following the fire, the City Brewery was bought by Wolverhampton & Dudley Breweries and the Maltings remained in operation until 2005. A visit by the Brewery History Society to the site at this time suggests a range of economic and practical reasons led to its closure, including a reduction in demand for floor made malt and new hygiene regulations. The building is currently owned by a property development company, who submitted an successful application to Lichfield District Council in 2008 for the building to be converted into apartments. Perhaps I should get out more, but the planning application actually makes for interesting reading as it includes a historic building assessment.

I’ll try and have a look at some of the other old breweries in the coming weeks.

Sources:

1 & 4 Lichfield: Public services’, A History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14: Lichfield (1990)
2 The Old Pubs of Lichfield – John Shaw
3 The Lichfield Mercury Archives, accessed at Lichfield Records Office

Milling about in Leomansley

Leomansley grew up around the mill built by John Hartwell in 1791, on the edge of Pipe Green. Pipe Green was a meadow which had originally been left to the poor widows of Beacon St as pasture for their geese and was being used as common land.(1) As compensation for cutting a watercourse through the green, Hartwell made an agreement to give the poor inhabitants of Beacon St 10 shillings worth of bread each year.(2) Probably a lot of dough in those days….

Bullocks on Pipe Green


Anyone who has been for a walk over there will know that Pipe Green is home to around 12 bullocks.  I remember there being an advert in the Lichfield Mercury a few years ago, asking for someone to graze their herd there
. It’s still owned by Pipe Green Trust, which is made up of residents of Beacon St.

Back to the mill, and in 1841, the census shows several Leomansley residents working as wool combers or spinners. I’m wondering if the row of cottages on Christchurch between Leomansley Wood and the Old Vicarage (Easter Hill) were purpose built for the mill’s employees? It appears that some of these people moved on once the mill closed around 1860, as on the 1881 census, several of the properties in ‘Old Leomansley’ are listed as ‘uninhabited’.

On the subject of employment, the 1881 census also shows several men employed in railway related work. In fact men from three neighbouring households were all platelayers and there was also a signal man and a coal heaver in the area. I’ve found a great post about platelayers and what their work involved at turniprail.blogspot.com. Once again, I’m speculating, but I wonder if the Leomansley platelayers were responsible for the Sandfields stretch of track on the Lichfield to Walsall line, which opened in 1849 and would have been just across the fields (which are now the Darwin Park estate). There is a photo from 1924 of the track at Sandfields on the South Staffs Railway website as well as plenty of other fantastic photos and other interesting things!

Sources:

1) History of the Cathedral & City of Lichfield by John Jackson 2) A Short Account of the City and Close of Lichfield by Thomas George Lomax, John Chappel Woodhouse and William Newling 3) ‘Lichfield: Economic history’, A History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14:Lichfield (1990)

Pomology

Now, I know it’s not apple season, but I couldn’t wait until August!  I have found a couple of old books on the internet (thank you google books!) devoted to Pomology, in which each apple with its sometimes fabulous name, is described in a manner reminiscent of fine wines.

Listed amongst the hundreds of different varieties, such as Bigg’s Nonesuch, Poorman’s Profit and Cornish Aromatic  I found the Elford Pippin. Described as an excellent dessert apple, it was a round, medium sized fruit with yellowish green skin, with markings of russet on the shaded side and red stripes on the closest to the sun side. It had a yellow, tender, crisp flesh with a fine, brisk, sugary and vinous flavour.

The Pomological Society tells us “it was raised at Elford, near Lichfield, where it is a very popular variety, and to which locality it is at present chiefly confined”. As with so many tradtional varieties, it is no more.
Not only did Elford have its own variety of apple, it also had its own rhubarb – according to gardening tomes it was one of the most valuable varieties of rhubarb and was raised by Mr. William Buck, gardener to the Honourable Fulke Greville Howard, at the Elford estate. The green-fingered Mr Buck also grew a seedling grape (described as tolerably good), from seed sown in January 1821, and exhibited on the 1st of October 1822.
In the 19th century, in some parts of Lichfield, market gardening was a thriving industry. According to J Martin, Fisherwick Park gardens regularly sent cabbage, broccoli, asparagus and fruit to Birmingham and London in the early 1800s and the County History tells us that by the mid-century, there were 68 market gardeners in Lichfield delivering their produce by horse and cart to the neighbouring Black Country markets. I’ve been told that the land around the old City Brewery, and gardens on the Walsall Rd and Christchurch Lane were used for growing produce.
Green fields from Pipe Hill
Though it’s not famed for its fresh produce as somewhere like Evesham is (the fruit and vegetable basket of England, as their tourist office calls it!), there is still a fair bit grown in the Lichfield area. We’ve always been to Coulter Lane Fruit Farm for PYO berries and yesterday, I picked up my first fantastic vegetable box from the Woodhouse Community Farm scheme (which was part of the old Elford estate!). A few days ago I read on the Lichfield Blog that local growers won an award for their parsnips and the fields around Leomansley are full of potatoes and other crops.  I’m no evangelist about such matters but I do think we should try to support local food growers directly, so that neither they nor us are entirely dependent on supermarkets (though I do use them a fair bit). So go on, pop down to Coulter Lane & treat yourself to some strawberries, or order a box from Woodhouse farm.  Every little helps….
Sources:
The Apple and its Varieties by Robert Hogg, Vice-President of the British Pomological Society 1859
A Guide to the Orchard & Fruit Garden by George Lindley, John Lindley
The Social and Economic Origins of the Vale of Evesham Market Gardening Industry by J M MARTIN
An Encyclopedia of Gardening  by John Claudius Loudon
‘Lichfield: Economic history’, A History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14: Lichfield (1990),

Miss Seward's Prize Enigma

Anna Seward’s will, was said to have contained a riddle, with instructions to her executors to pay £50 to the first person to provide the correct solution. The enigma ended with the verse:

Now, if your nobler spirit can divine
A corresponding word for every line,
By all these letters clearly shall be shown,
An ancient City of no small renown.

In a compilation of Thomas Sedgwick Whalley’s Journals and Correspondence, there is a letter from Mrs Whalley, to her husband in 1816, enquiring whether he had been told the solution to the rebus by Miss Seward, as someone had managed to make the word ‘Litchfield’ but she had not heard whether the executors had agreed the claim. The editor of the compilation has added a footnote.  He asked a friend to find out more about the enigma. On January 31st 1863, the friend wrote to tell him that “ having been carefully through both the will and the codicils, which are very lengthy….there is nothing in either which in any way refers to “an enigma” which could be so construed”. Reuben Percy claimed the enigma was a shortened copy of a puzzle published in the Gentleman’s Magazine in March 1757, attributed to Lord Chesterfield. A solution offered by Solyman Brown was IEROSOLUMA, which I think is Greek name for Jerusalem.  You can find various versions of the enigma, and the solution, on Google Books. If, as it seems, The Swan of Lichfield’s will did not contain the ‘enigma’, it would be interesting to discover where the story originated.

Sources
Gleanings from the Harvest Fields of Literature – Charles Carroll Bombaugh Relics of Literature – Reuben PercyAn Essay on American Poetry – Solyman Brown
Journals & Correspondence – by Thomas Sedgwick Whalley, ed. Rev Hill Wickham