Liz and Lichfield

I spent Easter Sunday at Kenilworth Castle.  I’ve always loved that castle, with its red stone ruins, associations with Elizabeth I and the centuries old graffiti.  And now I’ve found it has a few connections with Lichfield!
Some centuries old graffiti.

In 1575, after her famous last visit to Kenilworth, where Robert Dudley made his final (and of course unsuccessful) bid for her hand in marriage, Elizabeth’s next stop was Lichfield.  She arrived on 27th July and during her stay attended service at the Cathedral and had a trip to Alrewas.  No one seems sure where the Queen stayed (although it is suggested by the  Middleton Hall Trust, in Tamworth, that Elizabeth stayed there for two nights).   However, there are records of ‘Charges when the Queene’s Matie was at the Cyttye of Lich’ and amongst the payments for trumpeters, horses and paving and mending the market cross and guildhall, there is a payment to ‘Wm Hollcroft, for kepynge Madde Richard when her Matie was here’.  After Lichfield, the Queen carried on to Stafford, which was the furthest north she ventured during her reign!
As well as the Elizabethan links, Kenilworth is also connected to Lichfield via Geoffrey de Clinton, the founder of Kenilworth Castle.  If that names sounds familiar, it’s because his nephew was Bishop Roger de Clinton (appointed 1129), responsible for the fortification of the Close and for laying out the city of Lichfield as we know it.

(There is also a connection with my previous post about Drayton Manor.  Robert Dudley, married Lettice Knollys in 1578 and they are buried together at St Mary’s, Warwick, opposite the tomb of their three year old son).

Sources:

The progresses and public processions of Queen Elizabeth: Volume 1 – John Nichols       

Stand and Deliver!

Perhaps the sun has gone to my head, but I’m going to bring part of this post to you in the form of a poem.  With apologies to Alfred Noyes, whose famous poem I have plundered, here is my story of Lichfield born highwayman Jack Withers, based on information found in Charles Johnson’s “General History of the Lives and Adventures of the most famous Highwaymen, Murderers, Street Robbers etc” and in the Newgate Calendar.  

Young Jack Withers was a Lichfield lad,
Trained to be a butcher, same as his Dad,
And butcher he did, in a terrible way.
This is the villain’s story,
So bloody and so gory,
This is Jack Withers story, I tell to you today.

With no work in Lichfield, the city he departed,
And found himself in London with a band of thieves black hearted.
He found himself in trouble, and away Jack was sent,
Off to be a soldier,
A soldier, a soldier,
Off to be a soldier in the Flanders town of Ghent.

At the local Church in Ghent, coins were collected in a box,
Jack seized his opportunity and picked the holy lock,
His pockets bulged with coins, yet he still took more
And the money of the Virgin,
The Blessed Virgin Mary,
Fell jingling and a jangling upon the marble floor.

Jack was taken to the Cardinal, to receive his punishment
But told him that his heretical life, he did repent
His sinner’s prayers had been answered by a miracle tis true!
The box was opened by the statue,
The Blessed Virgin’s statue
And the coins had been a gift from her to start his life anew.

Jack abandoned then his colours and returned to his homeland
Where he took to the highways, upon which he would demand,
That travellers should, if they valued their life,
Stand and deliver,
Their worldly goods deliver,
Stand and deliver, or else meet his butcher’s knife.  

A mile outside of Uxbridge, an ill-fated Postman came,
Jack stole the man’s eight shillings; then to conceal his blame,
He slit the man’s throat open with his sharp butcher’s knife,
Gut filled with stones,
And thrown into a pond,
Jack the Highwayman and Butcher had taken his first life.

In the Norfolk town of Thetford, in April 1703,
Found guilty of foul murder and highway robbery,
Lichfield’s Jack Withers was condemned to be hung,
And no miracle could save him,
Save him, save him
No miracle could save him, from the gallows, Withers swung.

Whilst Jack Withers was born in Lichfield, he committed most of his crimes elsewhere.  However, there were other dangerous robbers in the area. On 30th January 1703, a gang held up the Shrewsbury coach in Brownhills, robbing the passengers.  A few days later, the same gang robbed two drovers returning from Newcastle Fair, murdering one of them and wounding the other.  Two days after the gang attacked none other than the High Sheriff of Staffordshire, accompanying his lady and servants from Lichfield Fair. The gang took sixty guineas, and cut off one of the servants’ hands. However, this latest attack was to prove the gang’s undoing. After a huge search nine of them were apprehended – three of them were women dressed in men’s clothes!
As you would expect, some of the tales about highwaymen in this area can be dismissed as nothing more than fanciful legend (there is a story about Dick Turpin jumping the tollgate at Brownhills, but as BrownhillsBob points out on his website this would have been chronologically impossible.) Others could be true – several pubs in and around Lichfield make claims that they sheltered the notorious Turpin and his associates.  Whitehall, on Beacon St, was once an inn called the Coach and Horses and according to a book by H Snowden Ward in 1893 it was a favourite rendezvous of Dick Turpin and his highwaymen.  “The inn was kept by Judith Jackson, a famous beauty and a powerful and unscrupulous woman, an efficient ally of Turpin and his men”. People who have visited Abbots Bromley may have noticed that at the Goats Head, a room is named after Turpin, to commemorate the night he spent there after supposedly stealing Black Bess from Rugeley Horse Fair. Also, Turpin’s partner in crime at one point was Matthew ‘Captain Tom’ King, said to have been born either at the Welsh Harp in Stonnall (now Wordsley House) or at the Irish Harp in Aldridge and both these highwaymen and others are said to have frequented these areas!
By coincidence,  a certain song was released 30(!) years ago this month. So, we started with a poem and we’ll end with a song.  All together now! “Stand and deliver! I’m the dandy highway man who you’re too scared to mention….”

Lichfield Cathedral and the Chimney Sweep

Most of the medieval figures on the Western Front of Lichfield Cathedral, damaged during the Civil War, were removed in 1744.  However, a few were removed a later date (possibly 1749) by a young chimney sweep at the request of the Dean who was afraid that one of them might fall on his head on his way into or out off the Cathedral!

 

WR Ingram, on sculpture of St Stephen
Most of the figures seen today are Victorian replacements, sculpted by Robert Bridgeman & Sons, GWSeale, WR Ingram . HRH Princess Louise sculpted the statue of her mother, Queen Victoria.  There are five remaining original medieval sculptures on the north west tower.  Originally the medieval statues would have been painted and gilded.
Sources:

Public sculpture of Staffordshire and the Black Country by George Thomas Noszlopy, Fiona Waterhouse
TheCatherals of England MJ Taber

Lore on Tour! Drayton Manor – Police, Phantoms & Pirate Ships

This is a story of a place with two identities. There’s the Drayton Manor that was the home of Lettice Knollys (grand-niece of Ann Boleyn) and rebuilt in 1830 by Sir Robert Peel, founder of the Metropolitan Police Force and future British Prime Minister. Where Peel entertained Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1843 and from where his body was taken to be buried at the local parish church of Drayton Bassett following his death in 1850 from injuries sustained falling off his horse on Constitution Hill in London.
The Drayton Manor that passed to the next three Sir Robert Peels, only for them to fritter it away until all that remained was the ivy clad clock tower. Have a look here if you are interested in the story of how the estate came to ruin. 
History of the Peel Family 

 In 1950, the second Drayton Manor, the one most would associate with today was born, opening with one restaurant, a tea room, three hand operated rides, six rowing boats and some dodgems.  Some of my memories from the 1980s are of frisbee, football and picnics on the grassy car park, trying to stretch the day out, because Mum and Dad wouldn’t buy any more ride tickets; the horror of plastic animals jolting up out of the water and the dark tunnel of the Jungle Cruise *shudder*; finding out the hard way that sitting on the end of the Pirate Ship is not the same ride as sitting in the middle of the Pirate Ship, and perhaps most of all The Snake Train, which was toned down in 1986 and finally closed in 1993, saving future generations from bruises, whiplash and worse. For some pictures of Drayton Manor Park from the 1950s to the 1990s visit their website Drayton Manor 60th Anniversary 

Now, I can’t resist a ghost story, and Drayton Manor has a fair few.  Sir Robert Peel, whilst Prime Minister, was taking a walk in the grounds of Drayton Manor, when apparently his father (deceased) appeared to him and had a chat.

Sir Robert himself is believed to have been seen wandering the grounds or riding his horse up the drive to the caravan site (!). People have heard horses running towards them in one of the lanes at the back of Drayton Manor.  Opposite the nearby central stores, the black outline of a gentleman, said to be ‘Sir Bobby’, can be seen standing looking woefully into the distance. Perhaps he’s thinking about his spendthrift descendants and his squandered legacy.However, the naughty Peels still seem to be having a good time  – in the park’s Missanda Suite lights switch on and off on their own accord and even party-like noises have been heard coming from the suite late at night.  Also, beer occasionally dispenses itself at the Park Inn where the clock regularly comes off the wall for no apparent reason. At the clock tower, one of the few features of the original Drayton Manor building, ‘someone’ has been seen loitering around and even climbing the tower itself. 

One final interesting fact about Drayton Manor is that the Tamworth Breed Pig originated at the Estate.  Also, there are some pictures of the house and estate at the StaffsPastTrack website

Lichfield Lunatic Asylum

“The Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated at Sandfield, about 1 mile S. of Lichfield, is a well conducted institution, belonging to Dr. Rowley, of Freeford Cottage. It was commenced in 1818. Mr. Samuel Heighway is the superintendent”, was William Wright’s description in his 1834 History, Gazetteer & Directory of Staffordshire.  Figures for 1844 show the asylum housed 4 private and 32 pauper ‘lunatics’.
In 1851 “The Parliamentary gazetteer of England and Wales” was still describing it as a ‘well-conducted and useful institution’.
However, this was far from the true state of affairs – in 1847 the Lord Chancellor had submitted his report “Commissioners In Lunacy” to parliment, as follows:
“No particular mention of Sandfield Asylum in the County of Stafford, occurs in the Report of 1844, except that it is stated …”that a Patient thereto. had escaped from it, and had not since been heard of. The premises, however, are inconvenient, and the rooms and yards appropriated to the Paupers very confined. On visiting the Asylum in February and April, 1846, various defects were observed by the Commissioners, and commented on, with a view to their removal; similar remarks had been made by the Visiting Justices, but apparently without much effect. The outer dormitories, for the Paupers, especially were noted as being cold, damp, and uncomfortable. On again visiting the Asylum on the 17 th of December last, the Commissioners found the place in a very unsatisfactory state. After adverting, in their report, to the want of space in the yards (which are exceedingly small and unfit for the purposes of exercise, and are moreover surrounded by high buildings), they state, amongst other things, that they observed no tables in any of the Paupers’ sitting-rooms (where, however, they dine and take their meals): that the bed clothes were quite insufficient during that inclement season; that in the various beds which they uncovered they found only one rug and a blanket for the upper covering, many of the blankets being old and several consisting of fragments only: that a Patient in bed complained of being starved with cold: that the Patients of both classes, with scarcely an exception, were unemployed; and that they (the Commissioners) saw no book nor any means of amusement provided for them. Upon hearing this report read at the weekly board, we directed a letter to be addressed to the Proprietor of the Asylum, intimating that unless the defects noticed in the last report were forthwith remedied, we should think it our duty to recommend that his licence should not be renewed. This establishment is by no means well adapted to the accommodation of Insane Patients”.
A further horrfiying account was given by Robert Gardiner Hill* in his book ‘Lunacy: its past and present’, who described the asylum as “One of the most disgusting places I visited”.  He goes on to say “The house was in a state of filth, and the buildings generally unfit for occupation. The patients were barely clothed, fastened and manacled as was usual at that time”.
 According to A History of the County of Stafford: Volume 14, the asylum was finally closed in 1856 following recommendations from the comissioners that the licence be revoked.
A County Asylum opened in Burntwood in 1864.

 
*From wikipedia ‘Robert Gardiner Hill MD (1811-1878) was born in Louth, Lincoln, of parents engaged in trade. He is normally credited with being the first superintendent of a small asylum  (approximately 100 patients) to develop a mode of treatment where by the reliance on mechanical restraint and coercion could be made obsolete altogether, a situation he finally achieved in 1838′.

Plague and Water

In 1840 Dr Rawson published ‘An Inquiry into the History and Influence of the Lichfield Waters: intended to show the Necessity of an Immediate and Final Drainage of the Pools’. The work was originally anonymous according to medical journal The Lancet.

According to the Lancet, Dr Rawson “contends that the stagnant pools around Lichfield are injurious to the health of the inhabitants, and urges several reasons for draining, and filling them up. This is objected to by certain lovers of the picturesque; and by another very opposite class of persons, who button up their breeches-pockets very closely, that the money may fructify there,when a call is made upon them for any public purpose”.

Part of Dr Rawson’s argument was that during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, Lichfield suffered five or six plagues. Although the whole of England had been affected, Dr Rawson argued that the effects in Lichfield were disproportionate for its size.

The doctor used statistics quoted in ‘ Harwood’s History,’ to produce the following table:

Statistics of the Plague in Lichfield, in 1645-6.

NORTH TOWN.

Beacon-street, Gaia-lane, Shaw-lane, Close, value £8.—Chiefly on ridge land, and all well ventilated, except the vicarage. The Close ditch was drained in 1643, and part of Beacon-street burned down, during the plague.

SOUTH TOWN.

Market-street, value £4 18s 4d; deaths 38; per cent. 18.—Defended by domestic comforts.

Dam-street, Butcher-row, Tamworthstreet, Boar-street, the Woman’s Chyping, value £4 14s 8d ; deaths 200; per cent. 16. —Exposed to external ventilation, except one side of Butcher-row; but partly adjoining the most infected districts, and containing a common channel, with stagnant water in it.

Stow-street, Lombard-street, Bird-street, Sandford-street, value £4 2s 7d; deaths 282; per cent. 41.—The extreme parts, small houses close to the pools. Bird-street, in the centre, being so narrow, that it has since been widened by act of Parliament.

Green-hill, George-lane, St. John-street, Frog-lane, Wade-street, value £3 13s 7d; deaths 321; per cent. 47.—Partly intersected by the Common Ditch and Common Muck-hill of the town, parallel to, but under the level of which were Frog-lane and Wade-street, while John-street was hemmed in between these and the Bishop’s Marsh.”

Statistics wise 51 per cent of Lichfield’s population died of plague in 1593-4, and 32 per cent, in 1645-6.

So, yet another miserable subject I’m sorry. I’ll try and find something a little more cheerful for next time……

The Bones of Lepers at Freeford

There may be a deserted medieval village at Freeford, (Fraiforde in the Domesday Book).  Evidence consists of surface finds of pottery ranging from 12th – 16th century together with some documentary references in 1334 and 1377 in the form of taxation records.

By the mid 13th century, there was a lepers hospital at Freeford on the site of the present day Freeford House (on the Tamworth Rd, before the junction with Ryknild St). Some of the exisiting masonry on the site is thought to part of the hospital chapel’s foundations. According to Thomas Harwood,  ‘A corner of the field, north-east of the present house yet bears the name ‘Chapel Yard’ and human bones are frequently cast up in this spot by the plough’.  The hospital was united with St John’s Hospital in Lichfield in 1496   Apparently institutions relating to lepers were often dedicated to either St John or St Leonard. 

English Heritage report that some 80 human skeletons were discovered near to the site during excavations for a road widening scheme in December 1917. These remains were buried around 3ft deep, all without coffins and on the whole, in a Christian orientation. A chalice and paten (small plate) were found in the the hands of one of the skeltons.  I understand that it was the custom to bury these items with a priest. The chalice and paten are thought to be from around the 12th or 13th centuries, if not earlier. More bones were discovered in 1969, during the construction of another road.

I wonder what happened to the skeletons – have they been reburied elsewhere?  Are there anymore under the fields of Freeford? 

Sources:
The Hisotry & Antiquities of the Church & City of Lichfield – Rev Thomas Harwood (1806)

English Heritage Pastscape Record 306532

Deserted Medieval Villages

The wikipedia definition of a deserted medieval village (DMV) is a former settlement which was abandoned during the Middle Ages (around 500AD to 1500AD), typically leaving no trace apart from earthworks or cropmarks.
Several potential DMVs are thought to be in Lichfield and the surrounding area (there are over 100 for Staffordshire as a whole).
Here is selection from the Staffordshire HER. 
Tamhorn Deserted Settlement, Fisherwick
Curborough
Littlebeech, Lichfield (Saxon, mentioned in Domesday)
Farewell
Horton, Fisherwick
Stychbrook
Elford
Swinfen
Freeford
Abbots Bromley
I hope to have a look at these in more detail and to post updates shortly!