Abbots Bromley is of course famous for its horn dance which bring hoards of historians, pagans and morris dancers hey nonny nonnying into the village on the Monday following the first Sunday after 4th September. However, as I came to Staffordshire’s folk horror capital in search of Other Things, my latest visit took place on the first Monday after I broke up for my Easter holidays.
I’ve long been intrigued by the fact that though Mary, Queen of Scots spent many of her years of captivity in the county, the story of her time under lock and key in Staffordshire is surprisingly low key. I used to be a bit sniffy about popular history but nowadays I’m all for using it as a hook to get people interested in places. Hence why I went in search of the House on Hall Hill.
The tourism potential of having hosted one of history’s most famous prisoners in the village, however fleetingly, was clearly capitalised on lback in the early 20th century. Visitors were shown the room the Scottish Queen stayed in which was particularly impressive given that the current house on the site only dates back to the 18th century. This tourism tactic is also used at the Goat’s Head pub which has gone a step further and named a room in ‘honour’ of Dick Turpin staying there. It’s highwayman unlikely that he did but does it really matter if he didn’t? Are people looking for history or just a story? Pubs and other local businesses are struggling so much for survival right now, if Dick and Mary, a secret tunnel or a haunting help to keep them alive then I’m happy to perpetuate a few myths. Besides, don’t we all deserve a little enchantment and escapism these days?
A word of warning however. Ghosts aren’t always good for business. In the 1950s, the landlady of the 18th century Royal Oak inn complained punters had been avoiding the place after rumours of a bearded ghost in a nightdress who played a musical box up the chimney spread like wildfire. It’s now an Indian infused restaurant which I’ve been told does fabulous food. I understand the signature dish is a Chicken Vinda-boo.
Back to Mary’s visit, as it seems actual evidence of the event may exist. A pane of glass taken from the Manor House and reportedly now in the William Salt Library in Stafford is inscribed with the words ‘‘Maria Regina Scotiae quondam transibat istam villam 21 Septembris 1585 usque Burton’. Local legend says Mary scratched it into the glass herself using a diamond ring. An article in the Staffordshire Sentinel from April 1900 sort of corroborates this by saying,
’ The villagers tell with a faint suspicion of envy how the present proprietor of the farm sold a stained-glass window for £300, upon which had been scratched the autograph of Queen Elizabeth (sic) and, in their estimation made a very good bargain with the old tapestry from the Manor’.
I don’t want to shatter any romantic notions about this souvenir glassware but I have got a faint suspicion that the present proprietor might have been weaving a yarn here. Although I’m taking its provenance with a pinch of William Salt I’d still love to see the glass at the library and when their catalogue is up and running again I’ll be having a look through it to see if the pane is still part of their collection.
One thing I can say with certainty is that Kate Lichfieldiae hic erat 3 Aprilis 2023 and was as captivated as ever by this beautiful Staffordshire village and its stories.
Sources:
Staffordshire Past Track
A Historical Guide to Abbots Bromley – Abbots Bromley Parish Council
Staffordshire Sentinel 7 April 1900
Rugeley Times 11 Deceber 1954
Birmingham Daily Gazette 13 December 1954
Lichfield Lore 