Encrypted

I first heard of the crypt beneath St Editha’s in Tamworth town centre a couple of years back when Mark from Tamworth Time Hikes visited and wrote about the place (see here). A recent article in the Tamworth Herald reminded me of its existence and so with an hour or so to kill in the town before an appointment, I went to take a look for myself.

St Editha's from Tamworth Castle

St Editha’s from Tamworth Castle

Exisiting stonework shows that the church dates back to at least 1080 but it’s thought the Normans may have built on the site of an existing Saxon church. It’s a wonderful mixture of architectural styles, with some beautiful stained glass and monuments to the great and good (and probably not so good) of Tamworth, plus a rare double spiral staircase in the tower. However, with only limited time, all of these wonders would have to wait for another day as I wanted to focus on the crypt.

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In the 1860s, the entrance was apparently down through a trap door and along a narrow passage. These days the crypt is reached via a flight of steps, making it far more accessible, but perhaps a little less atmospheric, especially as what looks like a Mothercare stairgate has been installed to prevent people tumbling to their doom.  Rightly or wrongly, I’m not the sort of woman who goes around opening stairgates without first seeking permission and so I went over to the bookshop to ask.  Here, I got a little distracted from the task in hand and ended up buying a book on ‘The Castles and Moated Mansions of Staffordshire’ (within which I’m sure lie the beginnings of many future wanderings) but soon got back on track and asked about going down into the crypt. Luckily for me, the church guide was sat in a nearby pew reading a newspaper and he offered to take me down there and tell me all about its history.

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One theory is that seven hundred years ago the crypt was part of a stand alone chapel, that may even have been Saxon in origin. At some point in the fourteenth century it was incorporated into the main church. During the reign of Elizabeth I, it started to be used as a charnel house to accommodate the old bones that were disturbed when new graves were being dug in the churchyard. This remained its purpose until 1869, when the crypt was needed to house a boiler and the bones were returned to the churchyard, reburied in the north east corner. I nearly fell off my plastic chair when we were told that there was a plague pit beneath our feet and coffin lids in the roof above our heads, including one thought to have belonged to a crusader and on which faint carvings can still be seen.

You can just about make out the carvings on what is said to be the stone coffin lid of a crusader

You can just about make out the carvings on what is said to be the stone coffin lid of a crusader

I’m assuming the coffins themselves were destroyed during the Victorian renovations, although one does survive in the main body of the church, near the entrance to the Comberford chapel.

One of the stone coffins can now be found outside the Comberford chapel

One of the stone coffins can now be found outside the Comberford chapel

When Mark wrote about the crypt he included this brilliant drawing of it from a Victorian account of Tamworth by Charles Ferrers Raymund Palmer.

According to Ferrers, when he entered the crypt, the bones were stacked up in very regular order and occupied the whole of the east end, where local folklore had it that a passageway ran from here to the Castle. In trying to find this passageway, Ferrers says he made a path through the bones by ‘carefully piling them aside’ but found ‘nothing there, except the remains of the ancient altar; the stone slab of which is gone’. He was unable to examine the floor at the base of the altar as there was nowhere to store the bones, which were ‘so rotten, that they crumbled to pieces beneath our feet’ as ‘in spite of all our efforts, they returned to our feet, and their dull clatter seemed a reproach to us, for disturbing their long and quiet repose in the sacred place’.

Ferrers is clearly made out of sterner stuff than me. Stood in near darkness with the bones of ancient Tamworthians rolling around his feet he even stayed down the crypt long enough to examine an ancient Latin inscription on the wall. Still visible today, the verse is thought to date back to the fourteenth century and is now protected by glass. Apparently it translates as:

O Lord of wealth and power
Thou shalt not live for evermore
Do well whilst life thou hast
If thou should live when death is past

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Crypt Tamworth

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All the guide wanted in return for his time and knowledge, was a comment in the visitor book. So, if you ever go, and I really hope you do because it’s such an incredible place, don’t forget to sign it on the way out (you may notice a comment from a very enthusiastic and delighted Kate Gomez of Lichfield…)

Sources:

The history of the town and castle of Tamworth by Charles Ferrers Raymund Palmer

A Short History and Tour of St Editha’s Church, Tamworth by Stan T Parry

http://tamworthtimehikes.wordpress.com/2010/12/24/the-crypt/

 

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4 thoughts on “Encrypted

  1. Very intresting Kate. I did`nt know you could visit and look around inside the Church. some of my ancestors were Baptised, Married, and buried there, not all on the same day…hi.

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  2. Ahh I can see you going off in a new direction and into the bit of history I love the most the Saxon kingdom of Mercia (its all I studied…or tried to…at school)
    Where Lichfield was the ecclesiastical centre, Tamworth became after Stone the centre of Government.
    The church was dedicated to Editha, aunt of king Edgar..who came much later after the towns re builder Ethelfledia (daughter of Alfred the Great) known as the Lady of the Mercians (a story on its own)…Tamworth was one of many ‘burghs’ Ethelfledia built (often on the site of old meeting or defensive places) as part of the defence against the Danes.
    Tamworth sits on a bend of the river ( the Tame and Anker meet here somewhere and link to the Trent and was an important river route for the ancients) and the Romans and later the Tame dwellers had been there, also it had been a meeting place for local tribes.
    It was the royal centre for King Penda (founder of Mercia) and the capital for Offa (of the dyke fame) long before Ethelfledia came on the scene . They are commemorated on the front of Lichfield Cathedral.
    The town streets are as the Saxons laid them out..look for the A shape. The tower blocks by the river mark the old town walls (wood and earth….the details are to be found or were years ago at the library)
    The Church has been rebuilt several time (burnt down twice by the Danes I think and sometime in the 12 or 1300’s the whole town burnt down I think!!!)
    but the church we know had a rebuild by George Gilbert Scott (who also mucked up Lichfield cathedral) and one window is by Ford Madox Brown the Pre Raphaelite artist.
    The tower I think has an unusual double spiral staircase, but its years since I last had a look around…maybe on my next visit home.
    Your first photo has the herring bone wall at the castle…this it thought to be Saxon, where the castle is Norman…..and what a view from it right across the Tame valley!

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    • Fantastic, I’m intrigued by that herringbone wall. One suggestion is that the new Norman lords used Saxon stone masons who carried on using their traditional techniques hence the Saxo-Norman overlap. Will be doing some more reading about Saxon Tamworth!

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